BHARMOUR .... DALHOUSIE AND BEYOND
Founded well over 150 years ago, Dalhousie (read in conjunction with Khajiar) remains limit of penetration for most of the tourist venturing into this part of North Eastern Himachal Pradesh. Having been there, and having done it ourselves in the past, we tried to explore beyond run of the mill coverage this time. Aim was two folds - after grueling bike trip to Changthang in Ladakh last year, Bagheera and Red Angel (our bikes) had to be tested again for the upcoming trip to Zanskar in June 2009; secondly, our two years old daughter, Czia (wants to be a traveller right away) had to be tested too. She appears in no mood to sit at home with her grannies while we venture into wilderness this summer.
So, over the longish weekend in beginning of May 2009, we packed up our bikes and set off for Dalhousie from Jammu. Sanjay and Ankur with their son, Parth on one bike and Czia, Deepika and self on the other, we started from Jammu at 0730h. It was Jammu Bandh that day and traffic was sparse. With a breakfast break near BD Bari, we made it to Mamun, on the bye-pass
of Pathankot, in good time and halted for a chilling dose of caffeine at Cafe Coffee Day. It is another issue that taste fell short of the mark because of some reasons. After Mamun, we turned left on Dalhousie road but short of Dhar, rear guard frame of Bagheera cracked. This time, there was no major load on its back.....just the manifestation of the beating it had taken the previous year. Some shifting of the load, adding of an improvised splint and a few curses later, we started off on the original course. (The frame was replaced by the dealer at Chamba later on).
We reached Dalhousie around lunch time, parked our bikes in Subhash Chowk and took a short stroll before lunch. As per original plan, we shot off to Khajiar for the night stay soon after lunch. Khajiar is one of the most beautiful meadows we have ever been to. This miniaturised version of Gulmarg did not disappoint us this time too. But for a few existing hotels, the place is exactly the same it used to be a decade ago. They have added a few things in the name of adventure but as the evening sun goes down, and so do the tourists, the place looks exactly the same. A friend (thanx Vipin) had booked PWD guest house for us and the view that one gets from the veranda, is worth a million, though we got it dirt cheap.
of Pathankot, in good time and halted for a chilling dose of caffeine at Cafe Coffee Day. It is another issue that taste fell short of the mark because of some reasons. After Mamun, we turned left on Dalhousie road but short of Dhar, rear guard frame of Bagheera cracked. This time, there was no major load on its back.....just the manifestation of the beating it had taken the previous year. Some shifting of the load, adding of an improvised splint and a few curses later, we started off on the original course. (The frame was replaced by the dealer at Chamba later on).
We reached Dalhousie around lunch time, parked our bikes in Subhash Chowk and took a short stroll before lunch. As per original plan, we shot off to Khajiar for the night stay soon after lunch. Khajiar is one of the most beautiful meadows we have ever been to. This miniaturised version of Gulmarg did not disappoint us this time too. But for a few existing hotels, the place is exactly the same it used to be a decade ago. They have added a few things in the name of adventure but as the evening sun goes down, and so do the tourists, the place looks exactly the same. A friend (thanx Vipin) had booked PWD guest house for us and the view that one gets from the veranda, is worth a million, though we got it dirt cheap.
Having had a sumptuous breakfast in the morning with a surprise accompaniment of live folk music, we decided to take our bikes for some off roading. Frankly confessing, till then we had no idea or clue about the road conditions ahead and we were simply looking at a test run of 200kms in mountains that day. Bharmour......the destination for the day appeared to be interesting. Tucked into Budhil Valley in the Shiv Bhoomi, the area is very close to the actual road head that serves as a base for ascent into Mani Mahesh and Kailash. About four KMs ahead of Khajiar, lie two view points that give a view of Mani Mahesh. After a brief stop, we moved on towards Chamba, the District HQ.
We took precautionary fills at Chamba and carried on straight towards Bharmour without wasting any time in the town. We were due for a tea break but soon after the town, we ran into a sparsely populated belt. Approximately 15 kms ahead, we halted for a cup of tea. After Chamba, road had suddenly become bad...potholes, dirt and loose mud/sand. Construction work on the
hydel project is on and road widening projects have added to fun. By now, we were just 45 kms short of Bharmour and as per the estimate given by the tea stall owner, just about an hour's
drive away. The distance was beyond debate but the road condition ahead consumed double the estimated time. The layout and configuration of the road did remind us of Rampur-Karcham stretch with the exception that road was just a dirt track. here and of course, there was Raavi rather than Sutluj for company.
Bharmour. Bharmour, at 6950 ft, is a quiet, little place where you start feeling really close to God. With Kailash in the backdrop, the scenic town has been built rather has grown around a complex that houses 84 temples of varied age groups. The main temple is supposed to be 7th or 8th century vintage. Untouched by aggressors because of its geographical location, the area feels pious, clean and un-violated. There is a gate as an entrance that comes to fore after you ride a steep market lane but there is no real boundary wall around the complex. A few schools and shops around the complex look and feel as an integral part of the complex. Sanjay was fasting that day and for him, more than anyone else, it turned out to be a real pilgrimage. Rest of us, the lesser mortals, polished off hot pakoras for lunch.
The scenic beauty, as also the holiness of the place, made us forget our aches in no time. In fact, had we had another day at our disposal, we would have probably stayed on there. Another 14 kms ahead and one can reach Hadsar, the road head-cum-jump off point for Mani Mahesh. It was past three already and we decided to drop the idea of driving ahead. We reached back Khajiar as the night fell that day. It was a short ride, compared to other rides that we have had but it was special. Firstly, it was to an area that is less frequented by the outsiders, we had no clue about what to expect and the most significant was the fact that both Parth and Czia
qualified for the upcoming ride to Ladakh. Kids were amazing. they refused to get off the bike s even when we would feel tired.
It was raining the next morning. However, we got enough break to wind up our trip with some
zorbing rolls. Czia went a step further and flew in air on a parachute. It was raining when we left Khajiar and it kept on raining right till Dalhousie. We got wet and chilled to bones. A hot cup of tea and we were ready to move again. Another chilling session (better this time) at Cafe Coffee
Day at Mamun and a treat of chai and mat'thi at Thandi Khui later, we hit our niche as sun set for the week. The short trip is over but the memories are etched in our minds and we are sure, the moments will remain in this state for the times to come.
(Blog by Ajay K Raina)
thefirstthambi@gmail.com
9697501111
hydel project is on and road widening projects have added to fun. By now, we were just 45 kms short of Bharmour and as per the estimate given by the tea stall owner, just about an hour's
drive away. The distance was beyond debate but the road condition ahead consumed double the estimated time. The layout and configuration of the road did remind us of Rampur-Karcham stretch with the exception that road was just a dirt track. here and of course, there was Raavi rather than Sutluj for company.
Around 13 kms short of Bharmour, we got a pleasant surprise....a small ascent and close to first view point of Kailash, the road improved suddenly. From there on, it was a smooth ride to
Bharmour. Bharmour, at 6950 ft, is a quiet, little place where you start feeling really close to God. With Kailash in the backdrop, the scenic town has been built rather has grown around a complex that houses 84 temples of varied age groups. The main temple is supposed to be 7th or 8th century vintage. Untouched by aggressors because of its geographical location, the area feels pious, clean and un-violated. There is a gate as an entrance that comes to fore after you ride a steep market lane but there is no real boundary wall around the complex. A few schools and shops around the complex look and feel as an integral part of the complex. Sanjay was fasting that day and for him, more than anyone else, it turned out to be a real pilgrimage. Rest of us, the lesser mortals, polished off hot pakoras for lunch.
The scenic beauty, as also the holiness of the place, made us forget our aches in no time. In fact, had we had another day at our disposal, we would have probably stayed on there. Another 14 kms ahead and one can reach Hadsar, the road head-cum-jump off point for Mani Mahesh. It was past three already and we decided to drop the idea of driving ahead. We reached back Khajiar as the night fell that day. It was a short ride, compared to other rides that we have had but it was special. Firstly, it was to an area that is less frequented by the outsiders, we had no clue about what to expect and the most significant was the fact that both Parth and Czia
qualified for the upcoming ride to Ladakh. Kids were amazing. they refused to get off the bike s even when we would feel tired.
zorbing rolls. Czia went a step further and flew in air on a parachute. It was raining when we left Khajiar and it kept on raining right till Dalhousie. We got wet and chilled to bones. A hot cup of tea and we were ready to move again. Another chilling session (better this time) at Cafe Coffee
Day at Mamun and a treat of chai and mat'thi at Thandi Khui later, we hit our niche as sun set for the week. The short trip is over but the memories are etched in our minds and we are sure, the moments will remain in this state for the times to come.
(Blog by Ajay K Raina)
thefirstthambi@gmail.com
9697501111
